When planting trees, the very first thing you need to take into consideration before choosing a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you could be tempted by all the different species that are offered, take care to choose carefully, particularly if you have an average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It really is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and will be expensive if done professionally. It may well justify the trouble, however, in case a mature tree is badly necessary for a terrace or for screening. Everything you are paying or may be the time it takes an inferior tree to mature.
The best time to transplant a tree is in the first spring or late fall. You can plant trees completely leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.
When planting a tree over 6 feet high, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Since the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps ought to be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider compared to the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be split up with a pitchfork and thoroughly blended with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure can be utilized sparingly and really should only be spread at the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for your tree. Once planted, it is possible to cultivate around it but not under the roots. If you hit a layer of building debris or clay, that is not at all uncommon near a residence, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.
Should you be planting a bare root seedling, you will want to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it could be kept before planting so long as it is dormant.
This means laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and covering the roots with good soil. While you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to stay the soil at the bottom; when it has drained away, place the tree in the positioning in which it is to grow and complete the soil around it.
More help round the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and be sure there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete the remaining soil without tramping it down, so the water will drain towards the trunk.
Tree Surgeons Stevenage balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a solid ball of soil where it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held in place by way of a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the bottom is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the top when you put the tree set up, and roll it back a few inches. You'll plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation round the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the ground.